Food is important in so many ways, right? It’s our sustenance. It’s our delight. It’s even an economic driver—especially in Portland, Maine, which is one of America’s new foodie havens. It’s also the chosen arena of my daughter, Megan, who is enrolled in a master’s program in nutrition. Since Megan is developing an encyclopedic knowledge of food preparation and consumption, I decided that I, too, should learn something about how food is professionally cooked.
Like others in my family, I opted for Bill Buford’s Heat: An Amateur’s Adventures as Kitchen Slave, Line Cook, Pasta-Maker, and Apprentice to a Dante-Quoting Butcher in Tuscany. Indeed, this book turned out to be an excellent introduction to a cook’s education and career. A journalist by training, Buford—who quit his job as a writer—became a volunteer “intern” at Babbo, a premier New York City restaurant owned by the celebrity chef Mario Batali. Or as they say in the trade, he became a “slave” to the master of the kitchen. Heat is funny, wise, even erudite in parts, and a terrific read. Buford knows how to tell a story and to describe in scrumptious detail novice professional experiences, travels to gain more instruction, and finally expert practices.
This book not only taught me a lot, but it was also culturally enriching. I realized, for the first time, that for chefs and would-be chefs, food preparation is a calling, almost akin to a religious experience. Buford described the cooks at Babbo, crammed into small, hot, hierarchically-organized spaces where they learn—through instruction, observation, imitation, and intimidation—the practices of this modern guild. The pressure of the kitchen is as intense as the temperature, the schedule fast-paced, the interdependence of one worker to another both highly elaborate and complex.
But since chefs only reach the summit of their profession by immersing themselves in the cultures that originally produced the food, one after another of the chefs and interns (including Buford) at Babbo make their way to Italy. This is fitting since Babbo serves Italian food, and Batali, the master, the superstar, the big personality, paid his dues in Italy honing his craft.
If you want to discover how an expensive, upscale, New York City gourmet restaurant owner and staff buy, prepare, and cook the food they serve with love, read Heat. It’s a delicious read.